“Diva” is on display in London. What do you need today to create it?

WithWhat does it take today to become a diva? Sunglasses? Leopard on a leash? Chihuahua stuck in a Birkin? Two hundred million subscribers? Scandal? Everything and nothing. We live in a time of ephemeral trends and celebrities who live a day or less. Instead, being a diva means stepping into the legend and staying there. We end up with an exhibition like the one in London at the Victoria and Albert Museum (until April 7, 2024), which in a word: “Diva” sanctifies a century of myths: from opera singers to silent actresses, from Hollywood goddesses to pop stars.and exhibits as fetishes 250 costumes, photographs, films and clothing, some of which have never been seen before.

Diva, exhibition in London

The only surviving dress Clara Bow, a rebellious red-haired girl who surrounded herself with the same chow-chow dogs. (same hair color). There’s the “flaming dress,” the bright, sensual, aggressive one that Tina Turner wore in 1977, and there’s a place of honor for Cher’s stunning look by Bob Mackie. There is the punk aesthetic of Debbie Harry (1979): her “pajamas” of synthetic-elastic fabric are almost psychedelic. Here is Norma’s sumptuous costume, a 1952 Covent Garden production. created for Maria Callas, the last true goddess of opera.

It all started with opera. Adeline Patty, frozen in the portrait of Franz Winterhalter (1865-70) between silks and fluffs of chiffon, was one of the first theologians: three weddings, a 47 km long crater dedicated to her on Venus, the voice of an angel. Greedy, wayward and greedy. The term “Diva” comes from the Italian language, born with cinema in the early 1900s and sanctified by the star system. Francesca Bertini was the perfect prototype: with her beauty and quirks (she stopped filming for five o’clock tea, by the way), she laid the foundation for a new style. But the most important ingredient, notes Vanni Codeluppi in Il divismo (Carocci), is distance: Diva was stellar, out of reach, far from mere mortals. The opposite of what happens with actress influencers and marketing oriented influencers.

Firmament without gender stars

There is something nostalgic, hypnotic and a little mournful in the series of sixty images that tell about a vintage phenomenon that has certainly changed radically, admits exhibition curator Keith Bailey. What, adds a modern key to an impressive collection: “It was the divas, when many women could not study or make a career, that encouraged social and political change. Sarah Bernhardt, the “sacred monster”, Eleanor Duse’s only true rival, and Marie Lloyd, singer and actress.were among the first feminists, and the battle for equality continued both with Clara Bow and Mary Pickford in the silent film era, and with the queens of Hollywood in the golden age: Vivien Leigh, Mae West and Marilyn Monroe (shown in a fringed black dress from Some Like It Hot”.

The first black superstar, the exotic Josephine Baker, wearing a banana skirt, she was a civil rights activist and spy during World War II. Billie Holiday, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald and Aretha Franklin, Ladies of Jazz and Blueswere symbols of the black community. Grace Jones and Annie Lennox and Elton John (whose stunning image of Louis XIV, complete with wig and train, is on display at a fiftieth birthday party) won a place in the exhibition for turning feathered suits and high heels into tools for reflecting on gender and sexual identity. Therefore, among the “divas” can also be attributed to Freddie Mercury, Prince and transvestite Ru Paul..

Be a diva today

Today, the Diva is a character, male, female or genderless character, with the ability to constantly transform and influence society. “Let’s get Beyoncé and a song Formation. This is a statement in defense of the Black Lives Matter movement and a demonstration of equality activism. The way she uses her voice to defend feminism is as powerful as the voice of divas from another era. Or Rihanna proudly proclaiming her Caribbean heritage. Or Lady Gaga, which promotes a campaign for the benefit of the LGBT+ community,” explains Keith Bailey. Thus, in 2018 we’re approaching Janelle Monáe’s “vulva pants” designed by Duran Lantinck for the Pynk video, and Rihanna’s bishop’s miter in a spectacular outfit designed by John Galliano for the Met Gala. New York Cardinal Timothy Dolan joked about it: “I lent him this, he gave it back to me this morning.”

We have divas like Liz Taylor, who had no illusions about the cruelty of the star system:“I was declared dead. I read my obituaries and they were the best reviews I’ve ever received.” Anti-worldly divas like Joan Baez. Divas capable of revolutionizing common sense, such as Madonna. Owners of their work such as Barbara Streisand, Liza Minnelli or Dolly Parton with her ironic Dollywood theme park. Independent, in an industry controlled by men. But, in addition to meanings, the story that their relics tell is fascinating (is it really blasphemous to compare them with the relics of saints?). Amy Winehouse clothes (as well as bras, DVDs, books, corsets, shorts and cosmetics – 800 items in total) sold at auction for $4 million.

Will influencers and tiktokers rise to Olympus?

Amy died in 2011 and it looks like the geologic era is over. The gods descended to earth, popularity increased, and veneration decreased. “The ultimate transition is taking place through the Internet and social media, whereby celebrities are so accessible to everyone that they can be belittled, ”says Massimiliano Valerii, CEO of Censis. “Just get the right to post your own video and you’ll have thousands, if not millions, of contacts. This is how new VIPs were born, from YouTubers to influencers. which in most cases turn out to be meteors, not stars. And those who remain popular like to present themselves as ordinary people. You can be famous, but not a star anymore, ”concludes Valery.

This is the end? Maybe, yes, maybe it’s another transformation. Today Diva is a feminist, revolutionary, ambitious, creative and mobile. It dabbles on Instagram. It is also a commercial phenomenon: cosmetics, creams, shampoos, bags and jewelry are sold here. He sells pieces of his life, but the alchemy required to bring the myth to life is really complex. 245 million followers is not enough (Kylie Jenner has a lot). And it’s not enough to be a legendary supermodel like Kate Moss. Not to mention a tiktoker like Charlie D’Amelio (the most popular in the world). Everyone sends messages to the world with stage costumes, provocative images, but who knows which of them will get to the glory exhibition in half a century …

Will Sunset Boulevard be for influencers like former mute diva Gloria Swanson and Norma Desmond? Perhaps one day, Chiara Ferragni’s Dior and Schiaparelli, seen at San Remo 2023, will appear at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Diva is dead. Long live Diva.

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