Eli Russell Linetz shows for the first time at Pitti Uomo with his Earle brand and explains « I am more a director than a stylist »

Eli Russell Linetz discusses ERL’s first IRL show and its move from Venice to Florence

The career arc of Eli Russell Linetz challenges the dubious stereotype that one must study fashion design to make it big as a designer. A native of Venice Beach, Russell Linetz studied screenwriting at the University of Southern California before spending his post-college years experimenting with a diverse array of creative roles: director, costume designer, production designer, photographer, graphic designer and So many. What unites them all – and what ultimately led them to fashion – is that they are statement forms.

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Linetz’s proximity to the world of entertainment, combined with her talent, has landed her professional projects with such heroes as Lady Gaga and Kanye West (whose HYDRA-like record of creative mentors is certainly unmatched in contemporary culture, regardless of what you read about them). also think). Then, in 2018, Ronnie Cook Newhouse introduced Linnett to Comme des Garcons president Adrian Joffe, who offered the then-20-year-old creative a label deal as part of Dover Street Market’s talent incubation program.

Since then, her wave-like hoodie has become an iconic staple, while her hand-tufted blanket worn by A$AP Rocky at the 2021 Met Gala earned her a place in the pantheon of hottest looks at fashion’s most glamorous event. Last year he collaborated with Dior Men at the Los Angeles show and was honored with the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Award.

Now Linetz is ready to take the next step. For spring 2024, instead of the usual lookbooks, well-placed in design, photography and casting, the young designer, now thirty, will present the first live fashion show with her ERL brand. And he’ll be doing it not in Venice Beach, but in Florence as the official guest designer of this year’s Pitti Uomo. The new collection will be presented on 15 June 2023 at 10 pm at a special venue in Palazzo Corsini, the historic center of Florence.

We met him before the event, here’s what he told us.

The position of Guest Designer at Pitti is very special and represents a major change in the history of a designer. Does this apply to you too?

My background is that of a screenwriter. As you know, I am more of a director than a stylist. I was doing so much for others that I didn’t get a chance to do anything for myself, so I created Erl. At first I didn’t intend to sell a single piece, I wanted to create something for myself, to go back to my roots and the authenticity of Venice Beach. It was just the medium through which I expressed myself.

Now I want to show a different side of me while staying true to Venice Beach. The name of this collection is Eli Russell, which is my name. I would love to work for a fashion house and I think I have a lot more to say. So I think this is a big step forward in terms of direction while I maintain consistency with my path. The collection is completely made in Italy, handmade, completely handcrafted. It’s very different from what I’ve done before…

no spoilers! But in more vague terms, how is this departure?

As you said, Pitti is a platform for unique expressions. And there was a part of me that thought I didn’t feed. It’s like I see the world through costume design and I’ve never dealt with dressing up in everyday life, even though I’ve encountered it in a certain sense. But you’ll notice that there’s a big departure in this collection, in size, in color, in everything. I’m discovering things I’ve never done before and pushing myself further.

You said you would like to work in a fashion house. Is there tension between the barefoot Allie of Venice Beach and the Allie thinking about that role?

It’s not a strain, but I’ve evolved. And now I see a fashion house as a platform from where I feel I can say something… because I feel I have told only 0.1% of the stories that I wanted to. And I’m ready to explore the bigger picture, like the difference between making an independent film and a blockbuster.

And what are you trying to say with this collection?

Every collection is a mini film for me. This time, the movie playing in my head takes place in 2176. In Earl I delve into the past, while in this collection I look to the future. In the story, Florence is submerged under water and an ambassador hosts a surreal ball at her home. Due to rising waters, surfers from all over California flock to Italy to ride the waves in the summer. They sneak into the party and dress up to disguise themselves among the guests.

This topic is very broad and detailed. Your first role as a screenwriter was: How do you stay articulate when the language is not words, but clothes?

Well I appreciate the accuracy so much I would have taken pictures of the show if I could vogue runway, But of course I can’t! – I usually take pictures and casting in my studio, so it feels weird to leave it all. But I still approach this work as if it were a film, and everything – from the casting to the set music, which I partially composed – is planned as part of this ambition. Is. This will probably be the only show I ever do, so there was pressure on me to hit every single element.

I was wondering what “artisan” means to a person from Los Angeles. We have worked with a number of film production companies, which for me represent the craftsmanship of the place I come from. For some pieces, I worked with the Los Angeles Opera. And we also did the huge installation inside the fort, a reference to the final scene in the movie Planet of the Apes.

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