High fashion has debuted in gray and customers love it. immediate 20 appointments

The publics were special occasions, with the front row filled with celebrities and people such as longtime friends. diane keaton, anna wintour, baz luhrmann And cardi b and designer for her high fashion debut Thom Browne it didn’t disappoint any of them gildo zegnaPresident & CEO of Zegna Groupbrand owner.

The show turned out to be dramatic and melancholy, but not without some degree of irony, as evidenced by the American designer’s decision to populate the venue chosen for the show (the Palais Garnier, the historic Opéra de Paris) with cardboard silhouettes of 2,000 men dressed in gray suits, the brand’s signature uniform.

The show, which takes the form of an opera, takes place at a railway station where a passenger (experienced model) alec week) comes with two coolies, who deposit the luggage on the platform while waiting for the train.

It’s the start of a parade of travelers dressed in chesterfield coats, Ivy League jackets, pleated skirts and seersucker dresses, sometimes mesmerized by the sparkle of gold beads or tweed embedded with tiny sequins and little clouds made of wool tufts.

In addition to the distinctive grey, bell-shaped silhouettes and prints and embellishments that have little to do with Parisian couture, such as 3D starfish and golden whale tail embroidery, graced the linings and pockets of outerwear.

For critics, Thom Browne’s first test proved too close to what the designer has always presented at pret-a-porter fashion shows throughout his career, but high fashion clients show that they like what is proposed: 20 appointments have already been set for the order. Not bad for a newbie.

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Paris Haute Couture FW 23-24: Thom Browne