Not that there was any need, but if there was ever the slightest doubt, last night’s special dinner, Wednesday 12 July, at Identita Golos Milano, provided a new, exciting demonstration of why greedy identity and his guide, jessica rosewell Maria Luigia of Casa is the Best Chef of the Year.
« Canadian, born in 1985, in Italy for almost a decade, having gone through all the matchesFranciscan TavernIn 2019 he takes over the reins of the new project Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmourimmediately a display of personality and techniques out of competition, honed by a rare skill with the coals”, we wrote in March presenting everyone young stars award Guide’s: Not surprisingly, rosewall Presented itself (for the third time at the Hub) with a menu that had its origins in cooking with fire and coals of various woods.
“Creating tonight’s menu was not easy – he told us at the end of the service – as there were so many possible dishes to choose from. To Maria Luigia House We have many stories to tell and many sources to draw inspiration from. In this menu I have tried to have a little bit of everything: Emilia Romagna, Maria Luigia HouseOur journey through Italian flavours, from north to south: I’d definitely love to add some more tips!».
Paul Marchi And jessica rosewell During the dinner presentation in the Hall of the Hub
Fire, embers, it was said: jessica rosewell Explained to us how the interest in this cooking technique, so primal and direct, existed even before we got here Maria Luigia House: «Cooking on fire excites me, because it stimulates my memories, nostalgia. As a cook, I am excited about the idea of being able to go backwards: cooking over a fire is the simplest and most primitive form of cooking, but today we are exposed to the first cooking technology that is modern. Then, if you cook professionally, you learn to work with many state-of-the-art technologies: ovens, roasters, siphons… always having everything under control. For this reason, when I started working a lot with fire, I felt like taking a trip backwards, finding more freedom, more possibilities to create flavors and textures than when working in a contemporary kitchen. Am. Because it’s the imperfections that make dishes real, the layers, the power of the heat, the scent of the wood. For each of the dishes I propose tonight we have used different woods, for example: cedar for the cod, cherry for the cotecchino, oak for the lamb. You can feel the difference and it’s a lot of fun working this way: some people use broth in their cooking, we use wood.
Description of each dish you can read in the photo gallery at the end of the article jessica rosewell, But among the evening’s tastings, it was the last dish that really impressed us: dessert. sky land sea – coal, sea water, a sweet-not-sweet that gives the thrill of tasting something completely new, fresh. At the same time, managing to be effortlessly delicious. A result that only champions can achieve, we say it without fear. We could only ask the Canadian chef to tell us about the creative process of this dish.
smiles as you pass
“Any creative practice is born from something, from a seed. This cymbal was born out of a musical spark: I was listening to Pink Moon by Nick Drake and I said to myself: “Now I’m going to make a Pink Moon cymbal”. I started playing with the idea of making a moon-shaped dish with wafers and tulle made of charcoal and raspberries. So I tasted the charcoal and the raspberry, I felt the acidity and the minerality, but that minerality of the charcoal made me think of something marine: so I tried to add an element that would make the dish more seaworthy. Take away But then I needed an earthly element to find the right balance. Then I wanted to add a romantic element with the shape of the rose, which conveys the idea of a dream. come rose… Trial by trial we arrived at the dish you tasted tonight: trying to make a “pink moon”, we made a rose that has the color of the moon. You can’t imagine a dish like this on the table, you get there step by step. Sometimes I think people don’t realize how many experiments, how many mistakes are made, how much hard work goes into codifying a successful recipe. The creative process is the most exhausting part of this job, but there is no greater satisfaction than being able to end that process with: “Yeah! I did it!”.
There are increasing rumors that in the near future jessica rosewell There might be news, maybe a new restaurant. After confronting her, we asked her directly if she could tell us about it: “Yes, there is some truth behind these rumours, it’s something she has mentioned publicly as well massimo bottura, We are building new spaces in Modena: we will let you know when the rest comes, I think in a relatively short time. I’m sure of one thing about my future: I want to keep having fun and this is the best thing I can do. I am happy even when I am tired. There’s so much love in what we do, in the way we try to make everyone on our team feel good by creating a work environment that gives everyone a chance to live a life that satisfies them. For our future, I just hope that we can always feel this beautiful ingredient, love, in every dish we make.”
jessica rosewell And edward traverso
Love for this work, but also for others. Willingness to commit to sharing this love and making it an opportunity for personal growth. They are the foundational elements of the Roots Project, a coworking space by day and a cosmopolitan restaurant by night, which rosewall always founded in modena Caroline Caporossi, maria assunta iole and the Association for the Integration of Women. before saying goodbye jessicaWe couldn’t help but ask her how this year went the roots,
“Great, it’s been a great year. 80% of women who completed their program the roots Today he is already working in the restaurant business in Modena. Those who pass by and stop by our co-workers during the day will clearly sense this sense of community: former interns who are now working and who pass by to say hello, those who bring children And sit down to chat with others, the mentors who interact with the students of the period, the chefs who are planning an event: for me the energy, the sense of togetherness and collaboration that exists in those spaces is dynamic. This is a project that is very important to me.
and not just for jessica rosewell, who is not only the best chef of the year greedy identity, But he is also a man of extraordinary humanity.
Focaccia – Modenese Pesto
«At Casa Maria Luigia it always starts like this, with our focaccia being cooked in the wood oven. We serve it with Modenese pesto: for us pesto is not a recipe, but a concept, which can be interpreted in many different ways. In this case we are in Emilia Romagna with chard, spinach, Parmigiano Reggiano and smoked lard»
COD – Crusco Black Pepper, Cedar Wood
“Cod is a fish that I find very fascinating, having traveled all over Europe collecting different tastes and stories. In this dish we took it to Southern Italy, we cooked it on a sheet of cedar wood, served it with cracked black pepper and sun-dried garlic.
Kotekino Kondo – Hibiscus flower, ginger
“a tribute to Takahiko KondoOur taka: When I started working FranciscanTen years ago, Taka taught me Italian cuisine. And while doing so, without realizing it, he was also teaching me Japanese cuisine. This is a dish I wanted to make for her, with Japanese-style breading, which we don’t fry, but cook in a wood oven at 450°, with a layer of hibiscus flowers, while the base is hibiscus, A sweet and sour sauce again with kombu seaweed, cabbage and ginger»
Montreal Lamb – Peach Mustard
« I was born and raised in Montreal, Canada, where there is a great tradition of smoked meats, especially beef brisket. Instead, we chose a leg of Bolognese lamb, which we marinate in a spice crust for smoking; Then we steamed it and served it very finely sliced with peach mustard. We also serve a sandwich next to it, for which we have made a filling from lamb ends, most caramelized by fire.
SGURGO’UN – lemon peel, basil
«Sgurgo’un, in the Modena dialect, is a liqueur that is prepared in many homes based on basil. It is prepared in summers, so that the fragrance of summers can be felt again during winters. We do this too and serve it with granita, then with bittersweet relish, basil mousse, capers and lemon peel sorbet.
sky land sea – coal, sea water
«Another way of cooking on our fire: not only with smoke, not only with flames, but also with coals, which gives minerality to the dish. It is a dessert whose base is a charcoal semifreddo with nori seaweed, raspberries, seawater and caviar.