Kim Jones in search of simplicity

At first glance, attempting to create a haute couture collection based on minimalism and simplicity may seem like an absurd and contradictory ambition. Yet, in the hands of British designer Kim Jones, the challenge seemed too easy. Responsible for making his mark in just five years as creative director of Dior’s men’s collection, the designer has been defined as a worthy replacement for Karl Lagerfeld at the helm of Fendi’s women’s and haute couture collections, from 2020 he Consolidates collection after collection. Your vision of maximum luxury by renewing the classic codes of Roman house heritage.

At the Palais Brongniart, a stock exchange building in the French capital’s 2nd arrondissement, Kim Jones welcomed her loyal guests, including esteemed friend Donatella Versace. However, the crowd of fans and onlookers around the Place de la Bourse, which was completely controlled by the heavy deployment of security, was probably due to the presence of some international music stars like Cardi B, who attended the fashion show these days. , Camila Cabello or the Colombian Shakira, who brought a flood of glitter as soon as they entered the building.

There is also a select group of actresses who usually look gorgeous at the awards and on the red carpet, such as British Lily James and Suki Waterhouse, adopted Australian Naomi Watts, American Zoe Saldana and Mexican Eiza Gonzalez. Also in the front row were Sidney Toledano, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group.

Against a solemn soundtrack by baroque composer Henry Purcell and a marble-clad backdrop, the Italian brand presents a refined interpretation of femininity that navigates between pure and rigorous lines and distills the scent of quiet luxury thanks to its use of fine fabrics Does Grace and ease on the bodies of the models. A delicate and formal fashion show in which Kim Jones managed to keep the sartorial look simple, accentuating the eye-catching pieces from the maison’s first high jewelry collection, designed by Delphina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth generation of the ladies of the famed family . And, even more difficult, the designer managed to let her calm and discreet personality shine through the collection.

Silhouettes that wrap around the body like a second skin drape neatly and drape over the body. Minimal dresses with a timeless character that play with asymmetry, proposing on some occasions a neckline with lateral thickness or a contrast between short and long sleeves. Matte effects work with flesh tones and satin colors in scarlet and turquoise brushstrokes, thus coloring some of the monochromatic costumes of the show’s first series.

Brown and black, recently one of the most present colors in Parisian haute couture, have made a discreet addition to tight dresses, in their long, short or transparent versions with bright embroidery, as well as in proposals made in the form of envelope hats. Bourgeois charm is given. Or suits featuring lavish jackets.

A wardrobe designed for the Italian brand’s classic clientele, which obviously includes its breakthrough bags, has dropped in different versions of the jewel clutch and designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of accessories. Meanwhile, the footwear collection included shiny Hellenic-style sandals and tall, form-fitting leather boots in pale shades of blush pink and cream.

The final looks of the show were reserved for some of the most unique pieces from the collection, including two long fur coats embellished with dazzling pieces and delicately draped, leaving the models’ shoulders bare. The models, however, maintained the lighter and more subdued character of the rest of the collection, highlighting the final look, which consisted of a loose top and a midi skirt embroidered with pink crystal stones. Luxury at its peak, requiring over 1,000 hours of craftsmanship by master craftsmen.