New European regulations, sensitive skin formulations and derivatives

European regulations limit the maximum concentration of retinol in facial products to 0.3% and in body products to 0.05%. “It won’t come into effect until 2025 or 2026, at which point there will be 18 months to stop production and 36 months to run out of supplies.” in stock”, says Miguel Sánchez Viera, a dermatologist and coordinator of the Spanish Group for Aesthetic Dermatology and Treatment (GEDET). Although still a few years away, the news is a wake-up call for the public: Is this asset at risk? “Vitamin A derivatives have strong scientific support and have demonstrated efficacy against wrinkles, acne, spots or photoaging. On the other hand, in high concentrations, misused and without expert prescription, it may cause irritation and is therefore harmful to The importance of its regulation,” the doctor added.

Pictured from left to right: RINGANA Night Body Treatment, MEDIK8 r-Retinoic Acid Contour, VERSO Day Cream 2, BEAUTY OF JOSEON Revive Eye Serum (available at Tōke Natura), Retinal Super Advanced Recovery BEAUTÉ MEDITERRANEA Serum, and DRUNK ELEPHANT A- Shaba Eye Contour. Photo: Fashion Suit

Enzyme p53, the key to sunlight

“Retinoids increase the levels of this enzyme, which is considered the guardian of DNA,” explains Isabel Reverte, Rosalique’s technical director. It is a protein that is required for cells to respond appropriately to extreme situations. It’s important, such as from sun exposure or rosacea outbreaks, to make it recover faster and better. Despite popular belief, “it is recommended to use retinol at night not because of irritation from daytime use, but because it is photosensitive. That is, the active material dies and becomes inactive in response to solar radiation,” Byoode’s says cosmetologist and biotechnologist Sonia Ferreiro. Therefore, it does not amplify the effects of sunlight on the skin, but since the active ingredients can irritate, it is recommended to always use SPF (as skin is prone to irritation).

3 to 6 hours

This is the time it takes for the new formula to deliver its principles to the skin, gradually avoiding irritation. “Retinol is highly sensitive to oxidation and degrades in the presence of air, sunlight, acidic conditions and heavy metals,” explains Ana Santamarina, dermocosmetics expert and founder of Santamarina Cosmetics. Stable microencapsulated vitamin A improves its performance and prevents reactions.

day and night?

Retinoids are not friends of light, “they are photosensitive and lose their potency under solar radiation. They do not perform any activity on the skin during the day. This is why nighttime use is usually recommended unless there are new formulations that address this disorder , such as retinyl esters,” says Sonia Ferreiro, technical manager at Ambari in Spain. Another alternative that works 24 hours a day is bakuchiol: “It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and cell turnover to fight blemishes and re-strengthen the skin; but without the stimulation of retinol”, EM Studio Esthetician and facialist Esther Moreno.

11 times faster

That’s what retinal, another derivative of vitamin A, does; the same goes for retinyl palmitate or acetate, which are less effective, while r-retinoate is eight times as effective as traditional retinol. times. “Retina requires fewer metabolic steps to become an active molecule in the skin and generally produces far fewer side effects during acclimation or retinification, which is easier to tolerate for more sensitive skin. It is sometimes recommended for patients with erythema Acne-prone skin thickens,” adds Elisabeth San Gregorio, Technical Director at Medik8.

Make your property profitable

To introduce active ingredients, it is recommended to “start with retinyl palmitate and, when the skin becomes yellowed, continue with 0.3% retinol or retinaldehyde”, advises Natividad Lorenzo, director of the beauty center of the same name. It must also be taken into consideration that to receive retinol, the skin must be pristine and dry, and “use the correct dose of the product and wait 15 minutes before applying other cosmetics. It should be avoided around the eyes unless it is targeted to that area specific formula,” warns beautician Marta García of the beauty center of the same name.