One book a day. Fashion forms of Marie Louise Friza

The perfect pocket book for understanding how fashion has changed in recent post-pandemic years. The booklet is very direct about how the most dynamic sector, by definition, had to rethink its forms: from marketing/communications to product, from the new role of creative directors to the disappearance of editorial directors (now leading the content of more complex platforms). to the geography of fashion itself, which is now moving into the Metaverse.

The essay answers all of these very complex and well-articulated topics. fashion forms From Maria Louise Frizapublished by Il Mulino (2022), which<обращается к современности, ставит ее под сомнение, определяет ее, не закрывая ее. И при этом он говорит о нас, о нашем существовании во времени>>. Maria Luisa Frisa, critic, exhibition curator, course coordinator in fashion design and multimedia arts at the IUAV University of Venice and editor-in-chief of the magazine Dunes, revised and expanded the first edition of the book, released in 2015, by drawing a map of possible paths in 8 chapters that invites us to think about the new frontiers and challenges of the modern fashion system. Topics covered range from sustainability to the Metaverse, from fashion publications to the very concept of gender identity and its expression, as well as terms such as Androgyny, unisex, sex. Friza herself recalls: “Male and female are not only genders that identify two different bodies and mentalities, it is an attitude towards clothing that no longer sees a division between the sexes or differences, but mixes the characteristics of both, leading to a new definition – sex: gender , which is not basic, but mixes opposite characters and dresses a body that culturally loses the attributes of the sex itself, him and her, and becomes them, them. Pose star India Moore collaborated with Tommy Hilfiger to create a collection of gender-free clothing that adapts to multiple gender expressions.

Today, people seem to be more free to move between different fashion offerings in search of what suits their own idea best, and this is also due to the presence in the media of personalities who have cleared a certain type of freedom by inventing their own style: for example, artists such as Billy Porter and Harry Styles, and in Italy, Damiano David of Maneskin and Achille Lauro. Since his arrival as Creative Director of Gucci, the work Alexander Mikhail it is both a denial of the brand’s “erotic” identity as we are accustomed to seeing it and its evolution. The transient sexuality of the abstract and thoughtful generation. The physicality, the imprint of the intentions and hopes that Michele has in mind and that over the years of creative direction he has gradually represented on various occasions, is a declaration of dissent>>. “I am not a man. I am not a woman. I am not heterosexual. I am not homosexual. I am not even bisexual. I am a dissident of the gender system>> he writes Paul B. Preciadowhich Alessandro Michele wanted to talk about in the film An overture to something that never ended fired from Gus Van Sant during a pandemic. Today, the challenge for some designers, among whom Francesco Risso for Marni stands out for his foresight, is to succeed in harnessing the transformative potential of fashion and enhancing the element of uniqueness. So, not just clothes, but bodies that live in clothes. Individuals who appropriate an item of clothing and leave their mark. All of these ideas and more on how to read contemporary fashion are readily available in the perfect book for enthusiasts and insiders alike.

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