From Italy to South Korea, when creativity meets responsibility: Pitti S/Style It is a showcase for designers who look at the future of fashion with an innovative vision.
There are people who recycle metal making buttons, who use laser cuts to avoid waste, who work with local artisans. Are 10 fashion brands emerging Pit selected for the seventh edition of S/Style (Sustainable Style), which showcases Pitti Uomo 2023 Provides talented designers with a vocation for sustainable fashion.
“To be selected, a brand must combine two characteristics”, explains Giorgia Cantarini, the curator and journalist who took care of the selection, “It must be attractive from a design point of view, ie create a desirable product. Must combine with responsibility. You don’t need to declare yourself 100% sustainable, but you need to incorporate responsible choices into your business model, from material use, to giving back activities, to environmental awareness. Their vision is to always improve in any case and want to express their creativity in products that do not harm the planet and people”. This year the curators have noticed a definite trend towards the reuse of pre-existing materials: “Using the so-called sleeping stock or deadstock of large manufacturing groups has a double value. On the one hand, nothing new is produced. , but in reality, they add to a circular perspective of inventory that companies want to get rid of. On the other hand, it also represents a savings tool for an emerging brand. Often they are cut in a special way. Fabrics happen, they tend to be in small quantities, but that’s not a problem for a small brand, in fact it stimulates creativity. And we’re not just talking about fabric, but buttons, details, Even about embroidery, zips… everything can be reused, even old collections with upcycling techniques”.
While the focus of Pitti S/Style is menswear, there are also a number of brands women’s collection, The names have gone through this showcase and then there is a pleasant development. Glenn Martens presented the “Evergreen” collection for Y/Project as a special guest in 2020 and will soon become Diesel’s creative director. American Spencer Phipps begins collaboration with boss from here, Englishman Steven Stokey-Daley to win LVMH prize in 2022 shortly after passing pit s style.
For an emerging brand, the Pitti Incubator allows it to make itself visible to an international audience of both journalists and buyers, but thanks to a partnership with the Kering Materials Innovation Lab – MIL, launched this year, the reward is doubled . The research center within the luxury group (which owns Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga) gave ten designers the opportunity to visit their headquarters in Milan for a day of training and exchange: “They studied Kering MIL’s materials and Technical innovations touched. They have been made available. Designers will have the opportunity to take a look at Pitti using precisely these materials or technologies”, concludes Cantarini. These include Spyber’s innovative “Fermentable Protein Fibers”, brewed proteins, i.e. laboratory-grown circular materials of plant origin, made through a patented microbial fermentation process.
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