The most original men’s fashion presentation in Milan

Italian version of

Gianluca Bolelli

Posted on

June 19, 2023

It took an eight-kilometer road trip to Milan to reach Setu’s Satoshi Kuwata, the winner of the LVMH 2023 Prize, but it was worth it, as this designer seems destined to make a huge impact on the fashion world.

The Bridge, Spring-Summer 2024

Setu was awarded the €400,000 prize, and we have rarely seen a more deserving and better prepared winner. Her installation presentation last Saturday was elegant and artistic, and she displayed a special way of presenting her unique vision of fashion.

“I was inspired by Japanese formalities – for tea, flowers or calligraphy. This is my version: how to dress, how to accessorize and how to dress appropriately, ”explained the 38-year-old designer.

Their various fashion ceremonies were projected on three screens. The models were shown dressed in Setu step by step following a precise ritual. All the dresses have the intricate cut-outs that characterize their style, with openings and straps placed in unexpected places, providing different options for opening and closing the garment, thus creating a multi-use garment. Are.

Everything was shot on film by Italian director Massimiliano Bomba, in “vintage” style, before an editing and video transfer stage. One can only admire the luxurious men’s suits in linen-effect pink denim, or the women in white scalloped bodices, as well as the colonial safari jackets in white cotton and striped apron-dresses for the men.

Satoshi Kuwata explained, “Hidden messages are welcome in the age of artificial intelligence, even though I want my creations to last a hundred years.”

The Bridge, Spring-Summer 2024

Like the great Alexander McQueen, the designer learned his trade from tradition while working on Savile Row. H. From Huntsman, more precisely, before the experiences of Givenchy, Edun and Kanye West.

Some of the garments were presented in physical versions, but they were all fabulous. Fully zipped on the sides in the same leather, like a black leather biker jacket; Or the ribbed knit that separates into three parts. The clothes were displayed on tatami mats. One of his conceptual linen sack dresses was presented as ready to roll in a long, narrow bundle, the perfect size to fit a dozen in a standard carton.

No wonder this spring-summer 2024 collection is called “The Mystery of How To”. Satoshi lives and works south of Milan these days, although – like his predecessor Yohji Yamamoto – he dreams of being able to go fishing more often, taking a grand evening out to sea in search of blackfin tuna. wears a jacket.

“I’ve always wanted to be elegant when I go fishing,” concludes the designer, proudly pointing to a half-dozen linen fishing tuxedos, also displayed on various tatami mats.

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