The sexy power of transparent dresses, the most subversive trend in history

See-through dresses are on the rise

Recent fashion leaves little to the imagination: the trend of see-through dresses, while varying in levels of “restraint,” is inescapable, and barely hidden nipples, navels and thongs have graced every red carpet, from the Grammys to the Oscars. While ’90s revivals – including the recent recall of Hunter Schafer, the transgender actress of Euphoriato the Prada spring 1997 collection and Lily-Rose Depp’s tribute to Kate Moss on ID – sparked the trend’s resurgence, translucent dresses have been jaw-dropping and eye-bugging for ages.

The transparent dresses in history

The mysterious Portrait of a young woman in white 18th century work by an unknown artist enjoyed renewed cultural interest as it appeared on the cover of My year of rest and oblivion by Ottessa Moshfegh (Feltrinelli). But the work, in which the subject’s breasts are visible through a layer of transparent fabric, is emblematic of the dress favored by French courtesans between the 18th and 19th centuries. The style, as the writer Louis-Sébastien Mercier wrote who nicknamed it “à la sauvage”, “did not leave the observer the task of divining, but of perceiving every secret charm”.

See-through dresses continued to scandalize even after the French Revolution. In 1913 the diaphanous, so-called “X-ray” skirts and dresses caused such outrage that the mayor of Portland, Oregon, ordered the wearer arrested, while theOregon Daily Journal

headlined: “X-Ray Skirts Destroy Millionaire’s Home.” Of her divorce due to moral reasons, Bertha Hanscom, 30, said: “My husband is an old fossil… I’m built for X-ray skirts and I’ll wear them. He doesn’t like them, but I don’t care.” . Wait for the divorce and I’ll make his eyes go wide” (husband James, 60, scandalized, told the newspaper: “Bertha not only wore diaphanous skirts, but also with slits.”)

See-through dresses and movie stars

Silent film star Clara Bow secured sex-symbol status with My Lady of Whims of 1925 thanks to an outrageously transparent dress. When Bow’s character Prudence Severn is invited to a costume ball themed “the less worn, the easier to repair,” she takes the message literally and rocks a barely-there dress. The suit — which hit the big screen before the entertainment industry adopted a set of self-censorship guidelines called the Hays Code — was so revealing it would be shocking even by today’s standards.

In 1962, Marilyn Monroe’s famous “Happy birthday, Mr. President” gown catapulted peek-a-boo back into the spotlight, and stars like Jane Birkin and Cher kept the controversial look alive in the ’60s,’ 70s and 80s. But the 90s marked a real renaissance, normalizing a bold look that made headlines in different eras. Sheerness, which meshed well with the grunge ethos, was loved by designers, with Alaïa, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Prada and Atelier Versace sending different interpretations of the trend onto the catwalk.

Sheer dresses and celebs

Choosing to reveal your body has incredible power. In 1998, at the MTV Video Music Awards Rose McGowan wore a nude beaded gown over a leopard-print thong; decades later, the actress recounted that it was her first red carpet since her alleged rape by Harvey Weinstein in 1997. “That was my first public appearance since being sexually assaulted,” she said. to the Dr. Oz Show

in 2018. “I asked myself, ‘Is this what you want?’. It was a political statement.” Even the conversation around a revealing outfit can change the culture. Jennifer Lopez’s iconic green Versace dress at the 2000 Grammys, sheer and with a plunging neckline, generated so many internet searches that it spurred the invention of Google Images.

Pseudo-nudity had its moment of glory in 2008, thanks to Christian Dior and Chloé. But the shock reached its peak in 2014, when Rihanna collected the CFDA award for fashion icon of the year with an Adam Selman dress, a nebula of 216,000 Swarovski completely transparent, covered only by a fur pashmina. With her signature mix of confidence and sass, Rihanna has become the perfect ambassador for this trend, flaunting criticism and encouraging empowerment. Other celebs soon followed suit: Beyoncé revived a nude dress by Givenchy at the 2015 Met Gala, while Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid declined the theme at the 2017 Met Gala.

The nude dress has made a mighty comeback in 2022 and shows no signs of slowing down. Chanel, Nensi Dojaka, Prada, Ferragamo, Dion Lee, Rodarte, Emilia Wickstead, Heron Preston, Rick Owens, LaQuan Smith and Y/Project are among the brands that have played with transparency in their latest collections.

This bold choice isn’t just popular on the runways: Ciara, Janelle Monáe, Emily Ratajkowski, Ashley Graham, Julia Garner, Daisy Edgar-Jones, Emma Chamberlain and Hailee Steinfeld all opted for sheer gowns at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party. Men also joined the trend, with Austin Butler and Shawn Mendes parading in various states of undress. Some celebs, including Kendall and Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber, have turned the look upside down, choosing to try on pantyhose as pants.

Read also: The strange trend of going out without a skirt and without pants continues also in 2023

While growing in popularity, the look still generates a lot of sensationalism and even vitriolic commentary. When Florence Pugh attended the 2022 Valentino Haute Couture show in a sheer neon pink dress, she was subject to much criticism. But, true to the fearless spirit of the dress, Pugh reacted: “My mission in fashion has always been to say ‘fuck’ whenever someone expects my body to shape opinion of what is sexy.” or sexually attractive,” she wrote.

For the first time, transparency seems to be pushing the envelope. For some time now, brands have been sending models with their breasts uncovered on the catwalk, but today even celebs and ordinary people are more inclined to get naked. Maybe it’s an act of cultural revenge against the government’s puritanical restrictions on women’s bodies. Maybe it’s a sign that we shouldn’t worry so much about our nakedness. No matter how you wear it, transparent is sexy, subversive and powerful.

Below, some of the best transparent fashion moments to inspire you.

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This article was originally published in British Vogue