ERL blows up Pitti Uomo with galactic show

Eli Russell Linnetz thrilled Thursday evening in Florence, putting on a show at the Palazzo Corsini that was a riot, mixing Hollywood cinema, crazy California surfers, science fiction, opera and the Renaissance. The eclectic stylist, special guest of Pitti Uomo 104, originally from Venice Beach in Los Angeles, had all the elements on hand to tell a good story as well as give her label ERL’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection a chic and very cool look. unveiled with , futuristic and textile at the same time, with lunar reflections.

History ? We are in 2176. The planet is submerged in water. A group of surfers from Venice Beach come to Florence, now famous for its super waves. They find themselves in a magnificent Baroque palace, in this case the Palazzo Corsini which stands on the banks of the Arno, where they find a grand wardrobe that has fallen into oblivion. And here our handsome surfers have transformed into renaissance princes in galactic mode, with a wardrobe that’s both elegant and glamorous, decadent in a mineral palette of very light or very dark grays with metallic and silver glitter.

The sound of waves and waves, accompanied by flashes of strobe lights, some electric guitar chords and a rock soundtrack from the distant eighties. this is not a green screen, But a kind of fluorescent yellow film set as the background. The models walk through the space with a determined stride, sometimes with the attitude of a rock star, but always with that distinctively Californian carefree grace. They look fabulous in iridescent taffeta or silk moire suits, dark sheer dresses or herringbone wet-look silk blends that reflect the light.

Oversized peaked-collar shirts are covered in sequins as if they were silver polka dots on a black background, as are giant flared trousers, gloves and a top hat. Some wear tuxedos that flow gracefully down the back, as well as beaded formal wear with ruffled shoulder pads and billowing jackets embellished with military decorations. Others adorned their trousers with chains in rhinestone-style rivers. One of them even waved an old medieval shield! The jewelry, ubiquitous in the form of choker necklaces, is signed by Tom Binns.

Passionate about opera, the Prentice photographer, set designer and artistic director, who sang in an opera choir in his youth, conducted extensive research, immersing himself in the archives of the Los Angeles Opera and at the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Theatre. , taking inspiration from their customs. He also studied fabrics and materials from the archives of the historic Florentine theater La Pergola. Research that has been reflected in the choice of some of the brocade and damask fabrics used to make the collection’s most precious tailored garments.

“Everything I make is authentic and organic. I’ve tried to make connections between my roots and Florentine culture. I love collage, mixing pieces found at flea markets, vintage clothes with recycled fabrics, Eli Russell explains behind the scenes of Linetz, who first made a name for himself in the music industry through projects with Kanye West and Lady Gaga. Before seen by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe of Dover Street Market. Following a collaboration with the young Californian in November 2018, the duo encouraged her to explore the world of fashion and started by launching the brand’s first collection at their Parisian concept store. Endowed with a distinctly Californian spirit, the brand quickly made itself known and today has distribution through 300 fashion retailers.

Undeniably, cinematic and Hollywood influences are very much present in his universe. In the blink of an eye, the mischievous designer even parades past the Statue of Liberty, with a toga made of sequins and opaque plastic torches! He even commissioned the famous statuary symbol of the United States of America to be installed half upside down on gravel, in the central square of the Fortezza da Basso, which houses the Pitti Uomo Salon. a setting that takes up the final sequence of a film planet of the apesDirected by Franklin Schaffner in 1968.

His wardrobe for next summer also offers more casual outfits, but always with a precious touch and textile details, such as a sleeveless jacket with wide lapels worn as a waistcoat and a side fastening. Or in silver lurex overalls in second skin or in stone-studded leggings, while a tight-fitting bodysuit is combined with baggy trousers with a folded silver paper effect. Don’t miss the delightful pullovers and cardigans woven with silver bead yarn for a fluffy effect.

For the first time, the designer who distinguished himself at the Prix LVMH 2022 by winning the Karl Lagerfeld Prize for Young Talent presented eyewear and footwear that are made entirely in-house. The 33 silhouette is thus enriched with glamorous futuristic glasses with a matte rubber frame and oversized cushioned tennis shoes, inspired by the Californian world of skateboarding and surfing. Some models also paraded with bags sculpted in the shape of meteorites.

“This collection is just an evolution, it expresses a new aspect of my brand. I make films, I make clothes for films, I do music. Fashion is not and never has been my end goal. happened and it works very well,” says Eli Russell Linetz. She said, “This is my first show and probably my last… I do everything myself, music, photos, casting which is the most important aspect for me. Being a control freak, it’s too much for me.”