appear without a show, and reputable companies go out of business

Despite local institutional programs to support aspiring designers, London Fashion Week ends with a string of designers who had to give up the runway to avoid sending their businesses into default. Reportedly fashion business, Nancy Dojaka AND SS Daly skipped this season, joining names like Masha Popova, Connor Ives AND Chopova Levena (which parade once a year).

Turkish-British designer Dilara Findikoglu canceled their event for spring/summer 2024 at the last minute. “It was difficult not to do the show on Monday night,” commented Findikoglu. I love doing it, and the show we put together, the one I had in mind, would be crazy and beautiful and impressive. Despite the regret, the decision not to move forward was a positive one: for my brand, for my team and for myself, it was not the right time.”

The absence from the calendar brings to mind the difficulty of creating a financially sustainable business in the UK, which also faces, or has had to face, situations such as Brexit, the pandemic and ongoing production problems. Even already famous names such as Christopher Kane, Peter Dundas AND Michael Halpern they have problems in the UK.

In June it emerged that Kane had appointed an insolvency representative. Restoration of the Federal Customs Servicefind an investor to refinance the debt or find a buyer for an elite fashion house that also dressed Michelle Obama And Princess of Wales. The designer who gives his name to the brand has owned the brand together with his sister for five years, after a period when control was in the hands of the French group. Kering.

Peter Dundas, former creative director Emilio Pucci AND Roberto Cavalliannounced a few days ago that it was liquidating its UK operations associated with the brand Dundas Worldfounded in 2017 with a partner Gospel Busis and highlighted by fans like Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian AND Shakira.

Michael Halpern, winner of two British Fashion Awards in 2017 and 2020, a few days ago announced the closure of its women’s clothing brand. She has been on the London fashion scene since autumn/winter 2016, presenting her graduate collection at Central Saint Martinswhich later also led him to join Versace Atelier, where for two seasons he was a consultant for haute couture collections. He dressed celebrities like Adele, Beyoncé, Marion Cotillard, Amal Clooney AND Dua Lipa.

TO British Vogue Halpern recently announced that he had decided to close down to focus on new creative projects. “For a stylist like me, I don’t think the career is linear anymore,” he said. I want to be more skilled with pens and fabrics and be able to conceptualize and do research.” Like many designers faced with the challenge of building a profitable brand straight out of school, he explained that he was inevitably distracted by “other aspects of the business,” from legal to human resources.

It should be remembered that the current London Fashion Week began with the celebration of the 30th anniversary of the program. NewGenlaunched in 1993 by the company British Fashion Council to support beginning designers. Exhibition Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion was a reminder of what British designers are capable of when they have the opportunity and financial support to shine (pictured is the Dilara Findikooglu dress from the spring/summer 2023 collection).


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