Givenchy’s Spring Summer 2024 men’s collection The second day of Paris Fashion Week was presented this afternoon in the monumental setting of the Hôtel National des Invalides, and designer Mathieu M. The affirmation of the idea of masculinity proposed by Williams is part of a continuation of the process, Mason’s third consecutive year at the helm.
Formal elegance in an oversized format
An off-white, minimalist suit, to open the show. Slippery double-breasted jackets, with significant peak lapels, paired with soft trousers with pins, with very long hems over formal leather shoes. The fit is over openly. Underneath the jacket, no shirt, we only glimpse the straight collar of what is, in all likelihood, a tanktop, a garment that outlines the story of the creative director. The suit has also been re-proposed in black, with some variations including fabric, sometimes shiny thanks to the use of satin, and shawl lapels attached to the tuxedo. The formal suit then shrinks to a waistcoat and trouser version in shades of military green, until it becomes overall in black or white.
a developed stylistic story
But as the show unfolds, one notices a gentle, balanced but inevitable turn toward a street stylistic code, clearly influenced by the designer’s background: Californian adopted, self-taught and with field training The one who blends fashion and music has a long list of collaborations on the cards, from Kanye West and Virgil Abloh to Lady Gaga. This new generation of designers seem to have similarities in all aspects, think Eli Russell Linetz too, who just returned pitty man with its ERL.
Street modernity creeps into Givenchy Gentleman style
Suits are broken, to be combined with bomber jackets and technical jackets with fluorescent inserts, which also return to ironic outfits where the formal elegance of a shirt, tie and pullover is combined with Bermuda shorts in style mymoney, Boots are combat boots, derbies reimagined in a chunky key or boots that recall the outer universe. this intrusion gorpcore It also shows up in sleeveless cargo jackets, trekking-style shoes, and accessories. Bags and backpacks mingle with bomb bags worn backwards, with belts recalling the iconic rollercoaster buckle, or tool belts.
and then, the infiltration of hip hop culture
But not only this, in oversized outfits, in the total look of jeans, in tank tops, in maxi-t-shirts, in voluminous trousers, references to hip hop culture can also be recognized. In a beanie hat and sunglasses with tinted lenses. The proposed minimalism is only interrupted when circular metallic applications appear on the sweaters, revealing the bare skin of the model wearing them. The creative director of Givenchy, renowned for his experimental jewelry creations, is the only concession he allows himself this season.
A development that incorporates the spirit of the times
If till last year, we saw logomania, with a conviction by most brands including Givenchy, this season may see a change. There are logos, but in undercover mode. In fact, they are visible on most shoes, and are only visible upon close inspection. The Givenchy Men’s Spring Summer Collection therefore represents a distillation of style, where the elegance of the Givenchy gentleman, embodied by the formality of tailoring and cut, Matthew M. The contemporary idea of masculinity proposed by Williams allows.
The volumes meld together comfort and simplicity, while the fabrics affirm a notion of understated luxury, though well-rooted in contemporary culture. The designer has a precise idea in mind when thinking about his collection, in his words:
“I believe everything about the brand is grounded in reality. I could see this guy, his look, exist on the street. And to me it’s a really modern approach to fashion.”
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