Is New York fashion stuck in a rut?

New York, a bustling metropolis known for its skyline, diverse culture and boundless energy, is stuck in a rut. Lately, the city’s fashion scene has been criticized for its lack of innovation and creativity. Some observers say the city’s fashion industry is somewhat stagnant, with big-name designers often sticking to tried-and-true formulas rather than pushing the boundaries of design.

New York Fashion Week, once a global trendsetter, appears to have lost some of its cutting-edge appeal. Aspiring designers now face significant challenges as they try to establish themselves in a saturated, fiercely competitive and commercialized marketplace.

The emerging brand stood out, although not necessarily for its collection.

Fashion on the roof

Fashion designer Shao Yang launched her Shao brand on the rooftop of Anna Delvey’s apartment on Monday. Notably, the event was hosted by Ms. Delvey, the notorious fraudster immortalized in the Netflix series, played by Julia Garner. The roof of her six-story apartment was turned into a makeshift podium, an idea floated by PR maven Kelly Cutrone. The models had to do their hair and makeup on a bus parked nearby, as limited space did not allow for a traditional backstage area. Ms. Yang, a graduate of Parsons University and the visionary behind the 9-year-old brand The Tailory New York, can be considered an expert in combining high fashion with elements of contemporary streetwear. He also knows how to use good advertising. The event generated an extraordinary response, the kind that aspiring stylists desire when launching their collections. Meanwhile, other established brands, despite their well-oiled marketing machines, have tried to achieve a similar effect, but to no avail.

In particular, the celebrity-filled Tory Burch show placed more emphasis on front-row spectacle than the collection, and the press release listed in large letters all the celebrities mentioned in the email subject line. The statement also lists the outfits worn by the stars. So far this is all funny. The statement re-emphasizes that the concept of front-row fashion has become inextricably boring, especially among the most commercially savvy brands with colossal sponsorship budgets that often dwarf the clothes themselves. After the show, most images are quickly forgotten.

When inviting celebrities can be counterproductive

When a designer turns to celebrities to gain fame, he runs the risk of being superficial and not focusing on the clothes and craftsmanship. Because, as everyone knows, celebrities are paid to appear and it makes it seem like it’s more of a business than an art. It makes you wonder: if brands have such huge production budgets at their disposal, why don’t they create something mesmerizing and innovative?

For Ralph Lauren, the timeless appeal of equestrian chic is back in the spotlight. Transforming the Brooklyn Navy Yard into a Colorado lodge, Mr. Lauren transported guests to his signature kingdom, where nostalgia blends with American dreams and a touch of old-world English opulence. Even among a star-studded audience that included Julianne Moore, Jennifer Lopez and Diane Keaton, Mr. Lauren knows things only get better with age. Celebrity names are optional.

Originally written by Don-Alvin Adegist for the American edition, translated by Isabella Naef for

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