Considered among the hottest designers of the moment, as well as signing an eponymous collection Ludovic de Saint-Sernin has recently been appointed creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, for which she has just debuted her first show during Paris Fashion Week. A dualism, hers, which is also reflected in the multifaceted past.
Born in Brussels, raised in the Ivory Coast, studied in Paris at the École Duperré, de Saint Sernin brings to the catwalk a design that speaks infinite languages. To learn the trade he sat among the desks of Dior, Saint Laurent and Balmain, and in 2017 he founded his own independent label, in the name of sensuality and refinement, eroticism and poetry. Counted among the enfant prodige who are revolutionizing genderless fashion, Ludovic is inspired by Japanese fashion and 2000s celebrities, although his icons always remain Helmut Lang, The Row and Issey Miyake. Among the celebs fans of her clothes are Alexa Demie on the cover of The Cut, together with the female cast of Euphoria, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa and Hailey Bieber. Also iconic is her lace-up eyelet, symbol of the brand, a detail that he made in loop during his apprenticeship years, and which he decided to celebrate like this.
When he decided to launch his brand he was not even 30 years old. What was the biggest challenge?
At first it was just a mini passion project; I remember sewing every garment myself throughout the first season. The challenge then was being able to evolve in a more organic way, going from being a young creative to an established brand.
In your opinion, what is special about your brand, in order to be able to survive the complicated fashion biz?
My collections express a very personal story, and I think people feel that. If the message is genuine and comes from the heart, it is understandable.
What inspires you?
Everything, but especially my friends and everything they share on social media.
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHTS
A place in the world that you love?
A few months ago I went to Mexico for the first time and, thanks to my boyfriend who grew up there, I was able to shoot it as a local. It is a splendid country: the nature, the food, the people and the culture. I fell in love with it.
His mentors?
Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe: sources of inspiration for my work since the birth of the brand.
He’s only 30 and has already come a long way. In your opinion, is the world of fashion finally in the hands of young people?
When I started my career at Balmain I was impressed by how young the creative director Olivier Rousteing’s team was. We worked hard, stayed up late: that was the beginning of the climb to success.
The most important lesson you’ve received in the fashion world?
A sense of community and belonging is essential. Working as a team and surrounding yourself with the right people is the key to success.
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHTS