Milan Fashion Week: divine Naomi, late Kylie and another documentary debut (besides Gucci). All the best from day four

The most awaited day is Dolce Gabbana, without a doubt, who puts on a show with clear and precise ideas. If I told you about garter belts, lace, sheers, bralettes, slits, and lots and lots of black, what would come to mind? That’s right, sensuality flirting with eroticism, balancing between the Yves Saint Laurent of his sexiest times and the femininity immortalized in Helmut Newton’s most iconic photographs. Flavored with a touch of perverse innocence, thanks to the all-white counterpart of many styles and the ultra-flat, pointy flats, confirming the flat heel trend that seems to be dominating everywhere. A show that makes up for the tedious wait – we listened to the same Billie Eilish song for an hour, something that could test the peace of mind of even the most hardcore fans – due to the delay Kylie JennerQueen of the first row.

And this is amply rewarded with a final entrance that brings – and believe us, this is not very often – long and warm applause on stage: Naomi Campbell, catty and convincing as never before. We want to tell the truth: between her and Claudia Schiffer, who was admired on the catwalk just 24 hours ago, well… let’s just say there is no history. Naomi wins over everyone.

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But in recent days, not only De Sarno’s debut has taken place: the debut Simone Bellotti from Bally. The Swiss luxury brand finally gains a compelling dimension and effortless elegance thanks to the new creative director’s many years of experience in the Gucci style office. Experience that is visible, in a sense underestimate and especially refined. Everything is very simple, calm, understandable, but also with a subtle ironic note. A bag with a pendant is irresistible cow bell: a touch of chocolate and the Alps. And also an elegant anti-theft device.

Debut also for AtticIn a sense: the happy brand, founded and run by IT girls Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, faces the difficult challenge of a fashion show for the first time. And to win this test, bet on a collection with particularly eccentric details, ideal for photo shoots in independent magazines. And for an audience of (very) young and eclectic stars.

Before “excellent confirmations without too many surprises” of the day – because, it must be said, we can view this SS 2024 season with the handbrake on: few allow themselves memorable head impacts – we find Ermanno Scervinocompletely focused on shorts, romantic false flowers and fabrics fluttering in the wind, Ferragamowho, in the pure and precise work of his creative director Maximilian Davies, has found an excellent compass with which to navigate the modern world, Bottega Venetaincreasingly dedicated to bold experiments in the most exquisite craftsmanship and Jil Sander. That we like it, we like it, we like it. What else do we need to add?

Among the confirmations of this Milan Fashion Week, as well as the unequivocal and obligatory of the season: it is not there, spring-summer 2024 starts again with a small suit white, a simple, perhaps sixties mood. It’s a blank page for the future of design: from Versace to Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana to Prada, everyone brought the all-white mini dress (more or less a mini) to the runway. Also take note.