It is best for him to push the bar of genius a few centimeters further. Because he, John Galliano, has made art gutted to the nth degree the only rule of his always eclectic and exuberant style, seeking to feed on the most disparate inclinations, cultural and fun at the same time, with the only rule being to avoid simplicity. Boredom, in essence, is not provided for in the life hygiene of a genius, regardless of its purpose. It is the spectacle, the eccentric taste for everything one approaches, the unconventional view of normality that legitimize everything and its opposites. Provoking, but with intelligence, giving an opportunity to have fun with bad taste, directing creative energy towards a multifaceted vision of reality, in which everything is possible if it is guided by a precise aesthetic sense. The obvious recklessness of John Galliano, one of the most unconventional and revolutionary talents in the fashion world, has always been to give carte blanche to his quintessentially British eccentricity, build a narrative in motion, never content with experimentation and question himself with boldness and sensitivity. raised to the nth degree. Like a rock star who has been bringing her recognizable signature to the great fashion shows for almost 40 years, theatrical, crazy and always absolutely brilliant.
Born Juan Carlos Galliano in Gibraltar, 1960, second of three children JohnAnglo-Italian, plumber by profession, Anita, an Andalusian flamenco teacher who decided to move to the UK a few years after his birth. The Galliano family brought with them all the Latin warmth of their homeland to the working-class district of south London, but this did not make it easy for little John, shy and fearful, to be accepted by society, while at the same time greatly influencing his view of the world. After visiting a boys’ school in the British capital and discovering that he had the gift of an illustrator, young Galliano abandoned the idea of learning languages and entered a prestigious school. Central Saint Martins, initially, to master the profession of an illustratorbull. The freedom of this environment combined with the experience of a costume designer. National Theater the city he was forced to make, without a scholarship to support himself, directed his vision to those theatrics, that taste for drama brought to everyday life, which would remain characteristic features of his stylistic handwriting. The clues were already in the collection inspired by the French Revolution. Le Incroyables, which he presented in 1984 on the occasion of his degree in fashion design. A veritable declaration of intent and spirit, in which the new rebellious yet cultured language was already evident, was rejected by an offer so unusual that it was bought entirely by a London boutique. Browns and hit Diana Rosswho immediately bought a coat.
A successful debut that opened the doors of fashion for John Galliano, convincing him to immediately create a brand with his own name, which he brought to the catwalk the following year, with its precise poetics, imbued with outrageous and romantic non-conformism at the same time. so much so that in 1987 he was awarded British Designer of the Year, a title he brushed aside three more times (1994, 1995 and 1997). But, despite the success at home, it was the move to Paris that did him good and, above all, the meeting with Anna Wintour who took him under his wing. The triumph of his first Paris exhibition. Princess Lucreziawhose background was his studio, and who saw the parade for free, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell AND Christy Turlingtonhe did the rest. His precious taste for storytelling was already everything in a show that could tell a story, with models playing the roles of actresses and dresses being the costumes. His asking questions, his desire to find out, using a different point of view to surprise with the unusual, that precision in constructing a reasoned and at the same time obviously unreasonable set that would allow us to discover a different meaning of the ordinary without stopping at first glance, it was much more than just a habit. John Galliano moved decisively into the realm of drama, sporting well-cut cuts and unsettling silhouettes, wearing the enfant terrible label with a smile, when, in fact, he was just a great scientist who was dangerously attracted by a penchant for excess.
No one could resist her overflowing charm and the same Bernard Arnaultpatron Lvmhcalled him from Givenchy in 1995, the first Englishman took charge of the French haute couture house, where he stayed for several collections, preparing the way for another of his luxurious compatriots, Alexander McQueen. In fact, the creative direction was ready for him. Dior, always in the orbit of the French luxury pole, where it remained until 2011, becoming its soul and face to such an extent that it was difficult to understand where the house ends and the designer begins. His immersion into the soul of the giant from Avenue Montaigne was total and all-encompassing, and began with a painstaking study of Monsieur’s archives. Christian Dior, which allowed Galliano to casually approach and, above all, as an artist even before becoming a couturier. His debut coincided with the 50th anniversary of the house on January 20, 1997 and was anticipated by the dress worn by Lady Diana For Meeting gala 1996: A simple and minimalist blue silk slip dress, in which you can already feel the atmosphere of change.
With John Galliano at Dior, everything was questioned, it transformed according to the designer’s personality, but never neglected the iconic heritage. The law of haute couture gave way to the law of entertainment, Christian Dior’s original new look became the basis of an author’s coup that knows no boundaries, appealing to both the most classic cut and pop culture suggestions. But it was history that indicated the guidelines for the style of the creator, who welcomed in his creations the mournful fate of the dead historical heroines, such as Anna Karenina From Tolstoy AND Anastasialast of Romanovsthat more common modern traits such as obscurity matrixwithout neglecting to immerse yourself in the classical antiquity of the Egyptians or pay homage to legendary characters such as Marquise Casati or Blanche Dubois From Tram “Desire”suggestions for contentious couples such as Napoleon AND Josephine.
The love for spectacularity in a historical key, accompanied by a constant tribute to femininity, has never been separated from the precise study of cut and lines, in the triumph of jewels, frills and exaggerated volumes. Not to mention the taste for prints, the skillful combination of noble textures, the passion for colors, the skill in the art of draping and beating. His fashion shows were the most anticipated event of the fashion weeks, spectacular and shocking, with a theatrical system that left even the harshest critics speechless, greeted by John Galliano himself, theatrical and smiling, striding down the runway in ever more surprising outfits. Not to mention his muses, extraordinary women who made the designer their personal god and received from him reciprocity with devotion embodied in clothes that can further emphasize their individuality. Charlize Theronwhich has lit up the red carpet with unique pieces created for her, has become a golden testament to perfume. J’Adior while for a different flavor, midnight poisonsigned directly by Galliano, the alarming one was chosen Eva Green. It’s still Celine Dion, Nicole Kidman, Cate Blanchett up to the favorite Kate Moss, who is always present next to the designer and the deep friendship associated with him. Indeed, it was thanks to her that John Galliano took his creativity back into his own hands after a moment of personal stress that pushed him away from the stage to allow him to take control of his life again. One dress was enough, gorgeous line-inspired bridal Madeleine Vionnetin which Kate Moss was at her wedding with Jamie Hinceto force him to resume the threads of speech. Which continued with the role of a designer in residence for Oscar de la Rentathe name that Oscar himself came up with for Anna Wintour’s creative, ça va sans dire, for the 2013-2014 fall-winter season, and which culminated in the arrival of House of Margiela in 2014, which was much desired Renzo Rossopatron otbgroup that owns the brand.
“All my life I have gone beyond myself and others in the name of fashion. Enough, I just want to be a clothes maker.” With this declaration of intent, John Galliano entered a house that had always considered innovation and experimentation to be law, the only possible interpreter of their essence, according to the premises defined by Rosso himself. Baptism, of course, was entrusted to Anna Wintour, who introduced herself at the yearbook. British fashion awards, wearing Galliano’s first creation for Maison Margiela, and continued with the first runway in January 2018, which achieved the perfect fusion of the British designer’s poetics and the house’s creative, boundless DNA. A crasis far from a sterile retrospective, but marked by this personal, unique touch of Galliano, capable of making a difference also in the Maison Margiela artisan line, haute couture dedicated to glamorous experimentalism in a relaxed tonality, with its divertissement between forms and materials with a strong essential illusionistic matrix and absolutely unique. The vision of John Galliano, never satisfied with discovery and movement, to tell a fashion that transcends clothing and becomes a courtly story of life, style and, above all, that passionate and intellectual fire that few possess. in possession and which is the prerogative of pure genius. (All rights reserved)