Does the logo still matter? New luxury is quietly changing the fashion market

Logomania, the origins and decline of the phenomenon

Logos attract because they allow you to consciously communicate with others the values ​​we believe in, our social status and our identity But when exactly did they become so important to us?

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We do not know exactly when logomania began to spread: some think that it was she who created it. the inimitable Louis Vuitton monogram or Gucci’s iconic double G from the 60s.. The most authoritative dissertation attributes the birth of logomania to a New York designer. dapper dan, in the context of hip-hop of the 80s. Dapper Dan, father of the real fake makes the logo accessible even to less wealthy segments of the population illegal printing of the Fendi, Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on clothing, as well as on furniture and curtains. The designer’s approach was definitely not minimalist (in fact, his creations were different logos everywhere and they were especially popular with the rap and hip hop community), but clearly indicated the need to declare one’s social status. Soon, even luxury brands realized the potential for recognition and prestige of logos: in the 90s. Versace, Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. increasingly used logos in their collections, and in the brilliant 2000s even pop icons of the caliber Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez they began to display logos as a symbol of social belonging. Phenomenon self-branding has not stopped growing with the advent of social media, which has become a showcase for celebrities and influencers showcasing their lifestyle and the brands they prefer, as well as everyday people who buying an accessory or one piece of their favorite brand, they feel a sense of belonging. But something is changing, and it’s not new. boasting is not appropriate in times of crisis.


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In unstable times, fashion refuses frills: quiet luxury

This has already happened with the crisis of 2008 and before that during the wars or with the “Great Renunciation” of the eighteenth century: fashion in troubled times is freed from excesses, becomes more restrained, minimalism returns. Today, big brands are taking a step back and they focus on quality and on clothes that will last for years to come.consumers for their part see buying clothes as an investment and they tend to buy less and focus on great classics that have stood the test of time rather than unpublished collaborations or logos. Thus was born today’s phenomenon “Quiet luxury”whispered elegance that can do without a logo and that redefines the concept of class, chic, but at the same time high-quality, functional and versatile. An excellent example for a better understanding of this phenomenon can be found in the restrained views Gwyneth Paltrow during the trial of an old incident that was heavily followed by the media in the new season Continuityin the success of brands such as Jill Sander, Haite, The Row AND Bottega Veneta and Phoebe Philo’s long-awaited return to the fashion system., a pioneer of minimalism and quiet luxury, this time with its own brand. The aesthetic of Quiet Luxury is nothing new, it is made up of clothes. the highest quality and production, luxurious materials, geometric and linear forms, the logo in this context becomes redundant to intercept the status of the owner.


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A new fashion narrative: sustainability and discreet exclusivity

New the trend of no logo can be an element in favor sustainabilitythat encourages consumers to buy less without succumbing to yet another fleeting trend. What Quiet Luxury brands do, this is the idea of ​​timeless elegance, in contrast to overproduction and the ever-faster pace of fashion; at the same time an idea move away from the logo, focusing more on personal style. The first store recently opened in Milan. “Logo Free” where all items on display have been stripped of their original logo, a choice allowing the consumer really buy what they like best without brand influence.

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