how fashion changes its aesthetics to adapt to the times

The aesthetics of big brands is their essence, what defines them and makes them recognizable to the general public, primarily due to the powerful advertising campaigns. Now that campaigns have moved to social media, it’s almost natural for influencers, creators and actresses to be the protagonists rather than just great supermodels. An influencer (and his target audience) can have a significant impact on the success (or other success) of a collection, which is why many Maisons have been surprising insiders and others in recent years with a choice of testimonials that are clearly far from their aesthetic. It is no coincidence that in recent years celebrity culture it also intrudes into the marketing of big brands.

Kylie Jenner for Acne Studios in denim

The most recent example is the case Kylie Jennernew star Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2023-24 Campaign. The Swedish brand and its historical designer Johnny Johansson (he held this position for thirty years, the geological era) defined very precise aesthetics since the beginning in 1996: lots of denim, lots of leather and lots of monochrome. However, in recent years, the brand has shown greater openness towards social audiences, especially TikTok, recognizing their great power in their ability to dictate trends, as well as rediscovering old clothes and collections ( mohair scarf the old collection went viral on a Chinese social network a few months ago) So Kylie’s choice is surprising up to a certain point and will only make the “pure” fans of the brand turn up their noses. The turning point in pop music, already apparent with the choice of Rosalia as the face of the brand, now seems to have turned into a new, more mainstream chapter.

In the pictures taken by Carlaine Jacobs, Jenner herself shows herself completely different from what she taught us over the years: the image is total denim, hair with a wet effect and makeup as if not. The youngest of the Kardashian sisters doubles over and wears two different jeans, one oversized. 2023 and with an average waist and a more correct fit, 2021. Also in the campaign there is a new Bag with multiple pockets Leather.

Campaigns with testimonials you don’t expect

The Acne Studios campaign with Kylie Jenner is not the first example of an unexpected pairing. Here are some testimonials from those who have become the face of the brand in recent years, changing its aesthetic in the collective imagination. One of the first surprise campaigns dates back to 2015, when Dior chose Rihanna for one of the four chapters Dior Secret Garden Saga. These shots were not only the forerunners of pop music and the more modern image that marked the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, but also the opening of the House to diversity and inclusiveness, which had been lacking until now: in fact, Rihanna was the first black woman to be recognized by Dior.

Rihanna is always the protagonist of Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign: under the sign of Farrell, the Maison’s bourgeois and traditional look gives way to brighter colors, as seen in the accessories. Collection spring-summer 2024.

Another House that has changed its traditional aesthetic also through advertising campaigns. Balenciaga. The purists of the House founded by Cristobal Balenciaga turned up their noses when they saw Justin Bieber as evidence: the singer is essentially wearing his evergreen street style and has not adapted to the historical vision of what Balenciaga is, and this is at the behest of the designer. Demna Gvasalia.

However, the situation is completely opposite to what happened with Kim Kardashian, who, along with her now ex-husband Kanye West, became icon of the new course of the Kering brand. Indeed, Kardashian succumbed to the influence of Balenciaga style (in the first campaign, she appears in an all-black outfit, almost as if she were a lady from the Hamptons, and with a white mini bag), but she also contributed to the revolution brought about by Demna, with mixed campaigns looks like a minimalist and bold choice. Demna has always amazed purists (in this case, not just fashion) by choosing Cardi B as the face of a campaign that stood out on the façade of the Louvre for months.