In the ever-busy world of London fashion, one figure has decided to slip away, leaving the public to wonder the reason for the sudden decision. Dilara Findikoglu, renowned designer of Hollywood’s biggest stars and her anarchic spirit, has announced she has pulled out of her show, casting doubt on Britain’s vibrant fashion scene. But there is more to the story: a reflection of the wider challenges facing England’s young talent. In an era where the industry seems to be constantly evolving, Brexit and finding investors are becoming barriers to creative growth. As London Fashion Week continues, we’re wondering about the future of fashion in the UK.
Ms Findikoglu said she pulled out of the show not because of her usual anarchic spirit, but out of a need to ensure the survival of her brand. In an interview with the New York Times, he said: “I didn’t want to do this and it was a decision I made lightly, but the reality is we just don’t have the finances for the parade right now.” Her brand, which she owned from the very beginning, needed investors. As fashion week approaches, the task of balancing the books has become increasingly difficult. She eventually realized that it was better to “cancel the show and use the budget more wisely than to be a disappointed artist.”
But where is the crowd of investors willing to bet on new English talent? Brexit has cast a shadow over the prospects of these young creatives, graduates of the world’s prestigious and expensive fashion schools such as Central Saint Martins. As a result, many of them prefer to work for big brands rather than take the risk of starting their own business.
As debate rages on social media and the media about the future of young British designers, London Fashion Week continues unabated. The event opened with Vogue World, hosted by Conde Nast, who turned the evening into a Broadway show, designed down to the last detail to be Instagrammable. The event was attended by celebrities such as Anna Wintour, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista, as well as many other British stars. Despite the industry’s digital and inclusive evolution, Vogue remains tied to a certain nostalgia for the past.
One of the most interesting fashion shows was the show of JW Anderson, a creative person loved by both youth and the fashion system, and also the designer of LOEWE. His collection sought to combine playfulness with pragmatism and vice versa, with clothes designed for everyday life. The art of combining practicality and creativity was showcased in pieces such as sweatshirts, blazers, cargo pants and minidresses, which were interpreted in a playful way.
Instead, the ERDEM collection explored the theme of heritage and identity through the lens of Deborah, the late Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with Chatsworth House. Erdem accessed the archive of Debo, as she was affectionately known, and created a collection that not only takes inspiration from Debo’s wardrobe, but also embodies her spirit and vision. The Duchess, with her pragmatism and devotion to Chatsworth, exemplified English eccentricity, an energy captured in Erdem’s collection through fragments of memories and vintage textiles.
Burberry made headlines by transforming Bond Street tube station into Burberry Street to celebrate London Fashion Week. Creative director Daniel Lee unveiled the collection, which features chain-link prints and a vibrant new color, “Knight Blue.” The runway featured elongated silhouettes, soft khaki bags and structured leather bags in red, white and green. The models showed off sandals with blue soles and a new interpretation of the classic Burberry trench coat.
While London Fashion Week continues to deliver breathtaking shows and creative innovation, the future of fashion in the UK is still up in the air. Brexit and the lack of investors willing to support young talent could pose a threat to the vitality and diversity of the British fashion industry. We wonder whether the UK can overcome these challenges and maintain its position as the fashion capital of the world.
At a time when fashion is constantly evolving, it is designers like Dilara Findikoglu, JW Anderson and ERDEM who represent the lifeblood of the industry, bringing new ideas and perspectives. The question remains: who will support this new talent and ensure a prosperous future for British fashion?
As London continues to sparkle with creativity and innovation, the UK fashion world is at a crossroads. Can it overcome the challenges posed by Brexit and provide adequate support for young designers? Only time will tell which path British fashion will take, but one thing is certain: the passion and ingenuity of British talent will continue to light up the international catwalks.