Combat boots transcend punk and grunge culture and become a symbol of modern off-season comfort: the best models for autumn-winter 2023 2024
This is the story of a legendary trend that went viral, originating in the Austrian mountains before it made its way onto the streets of London with punk culture. If the first model dates back to the 2nd century BC (made of leather with a studded sole and a metal closure), then the reinforced shafts as we know them today are the result of necessity. We are in 1945 and Mr. Klaus Martens, or rather the famous Dr. Martens, is injured while skiing in the snow-white Austrian Alps, and out of necessity creates shock-absorbing shoes that allow him to walk despite the pain in his ankle. Immediately, this thick rubber sole, designed to provide more comfort, was especially appreciated by the older women of the time, who began to wear these lace-up shoes with amazing comfort. In fact, this is a modified model of the ancestor of black leather army boots, with a thick sole and stitching on the toe, already proposed by British entrepreneurs Benjamin Griggs and Septimus Jones in 1901.
Combat boots, from 70s punk to 90s grunge
The patent, developed by Dr. Martens with the help of Dr. Funk, is sold to Griggs, which improves women’s and men’s amphibians with iconic contrasting yellow stitching and AirWair’s signature air-cushioned cushioning sole. In addition to becoming a cult item, the Dr Martens amphibians are the first shoe to embody the symbol of a youth cultural movement: punk. It becomes the emblem of the anarchist subversive movement that Vivienne Westwood is building in London, amid Scottish plaid folklore, placard T-shirts and metal pins pierced through leather jackets. The eight-hole 1460 military boot is particularly popular with a generation of boldly dressed rebels, seen both in the slums and on the international stage, worn by artists from groups such as The Who, Ramones and Sex Pistols.
The season of black combat boots doesn’t end in the 70s, because the grunge of the 90s marks their return: they are worn by the stars of the time, who, off sets and red carpets, prefer these lace-up shoes with mom fit jeans or opaque black tights and minis. Among them are Winona Ryder and Gwyneth Paltrow. The new generation has unkempt hair, loves black, and the music of Pearl Jam, Nirvana and Alice in Chains is in their ears. These are the years of the iconic amphibian shoe brand Marche, born in 1987, the Italian alternative to Dr Martens.
Return of the amphibians
In fact, these shoes have never disappeared from our wardrobes: leaving the prerogative of work (or military) shoes, they became a status symbol, first for teenagers from the suburbs, and then for the rebels who took to the streets. Now they can have all of these values, but with a fancy coolness value added. After several years of crisis that forced the closure of several companies, in 2003 fashion turned its attention to these iconic shoes, including the Dr Martens 1460 boots. In a short time, teenagers and millennials (the ones who obsessed smells like Teen Spirit) started to wear combat boots: in addition to black or cherry leather models, white and patterned combat boots were added, with a series of really interesting capsule collections. In a short time, jeans, hard-soled shoes and a men’s jacket with new ear piercings have become commonplace for several generations (at least here in Milan).
The emphasis on the trend for combat boots, which lasted until autumn-winter 2023 2024, was made by Prada with a fashion show in February 2019. The collection plays in imitation of Frankenstein, alternating a listless catatonic state with sudden bursts of uncontrollable energy. Lace and military jackets, maxi floral bouquets on skirts and feet, Prada combat boots that will be sold out as soon as they are available. This is a model with a particularly thick sole and practical pockets, which will also be worn by Kaia Gerber.
The best amphibians to buy online for autumn-winter 2023 2024
- Black amphibians Amazon Basics
- Amphibians Dr. Martens
- Amphibians Prada with practical pocket
- Amphibians Liu Jo with a rose on her ankle
- Amphibians Marseilles with contrasting laces
- Cone amphibians legres
- Amphibians Cult
- Studded combat boots Alaya
- Tall amphibians Ann Demeulemeister
- Amphibians H&M
- Amphibians Bottega Veneta tall and elastic
#1 Classic black combat boots or with decorations
They have become passe-partout regardless of style (punk, grunge or rock), so much so that they appear in the modern new wave along with the great classics (like the trench coat): this year, wear them with baggy jeans with pockets or light colored trousers for play with contrast.
There is no shortage of fashionable variations with decorative elements: a practical Prada bag or Liu Jo’s amphibious false rose.
You should also take into account i Micarro boots from Marsèll: not too tall amphibians with very soft skin, especially Vittoria Ceretti models. A cult item is the ones with contrasting white laces.