90s grunge is back, an existential and disruptive trend | Italy fashion

Grunge is back, a trend popularized by Kate Moss in the 90s, and she always wears it on the Bottega Veneta catwalk.

While past trends are at the center of the fashion debate now more than ever, just think of the 2000 obsession: candy pink dresses, rhinestone-encrusted sunglasses, trucker hats and chenille sneakers from Juicy Couture – again emulates another aesthetic born in the 90s + 2000s: grunge.

The phenomenon of grunge, which originated in the Northwestern United States between the 80s and 90s before becoming a style of music or clothing, was a state of mind defined by the young people of the time in response to society’s suggestion. them. In music, he experienced a moment of glory thanks to characters such as Kurt Cobain, leaders Nirvanawho made a statement in the late 1980s with long, messy hair, oversized clothes, and a laid-back demeanor.

The look of ripped jeans and unbuttoned flannel shirts over worn T-shirts, baggy or holey pullovers, combat boots and worn-out sneakers captures the existential feel of grunge, which in its extreme forms recognizes the devaluation of all the values ​​that result from it. in apathy towards a life lived in a way doomed to fail.

Kurt Cobain

Frans Schellekens/Redferns

Kate mossa, grunge icon

This look burst onto the international fashion scene in 1993 with Marc Jacobs, who launched a provocative “grunge chic” collection on the New York runway with silk petticoats, printed T-shirts and plaid shirts for sports brand Perry Ellis. Then this style is booming thanks to Kate Moss, top model and fashion icon who in the 90s effortlessly wore leather jackets, slip dresses paired with belts, boots and lumberjack shirts. The plaid shirt is the item of clothing that is making a comeback in 2023: at the Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show from Bottega Veneta, Mathieu Blazy revisited the iconic piece of clothing with the release of the tromple-lé leather version that the supermodel herself wore on the runway.

Kate Moss at Glastonbury, 2005

Matt Cardy

Kate Moss at the Bottega Veneta Spring-Summer 2023 show

fashion runway

The return of grunge to the catwalks spring-summer 2023

In 2023, the grunge trend, in addition to Bottega Veneta, was followed by other fashion houses: Acne Studios created destroyed dresses and sweaters, Vivienne Westwood AND Burberry (under impulse Daniel Lee) complemented their collections with deconstructed plaid prints, and Givenchy played a card layering layering clothing.

The printed skirt is the latest version of grunge.

The latest take on grunge is the midi slip skirt with environmentalist prints and a little spooky. Forerunner, a Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1998 model (featuring a scene inspired by Frida Kahlo), to which is added a skirt from street brand Knitwrth (this time with a smiling face of Aphex Twin) and an Open YY version (covered drawings of dogs and dinosaurs). Each of these skirts has become an essential part of the everyday wardrobe of Lily Rose-Depp, Rosalia and Lisa of Blackpink and others. However, patient zero of this entire revival has likely been the Marc Jacobs Heaven skirt, featuring Kirsten Dunst’s photograph in the film. Garden of the Virgin Suicides Sofia Coppola. The contemporary mood is a little more whimsical, a little more “no one understands me” compared to the flamboyant 90s style that has come to infiltrate the mainstream.

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