At the Herald Plaza, the backdrop is the Atlantic of Biscayne Bay enlivened by a play of fountains and light and shadow by the pool. The idea is that the models have to give the impression of walking on water and actually the show turned out to be quite wet for everyone due to the wind on the jets. The first to come out is the 55-year-old Pamela Anderson, a very serious version, with the new suit that today more than represents an ally for Â«conquer power» wants to gratify you, make you feel sensual and self-confident. The trousers in a thin cool wool that almost looks like gauze with the jacket with a precise cut but emptied on the back. Hugo Boss catapulted the world to Miami to resume the journey of the renewal of its main brand Boss (high-end, more formal than Hugo, more casual). They also parade on the catwalk Amber Valletta, Mariacarla Boscono, the Korean rapper Big Matthew (born in 1992), the TitToker Khaby Lame, Law Roach architect stilyst who said bye bye to Zendaya. Watching them, sitting in the front row: Bella Thorne Demi Lovato, Camilla Morrone, Suki Waterhouse, the artists Kano and Maluma. Last release for Naomi – escorted by DJ Khaled – usual goddess capable of overshadowing everyone even with a tailored black dress made hyper-feminine by the slits and the cut that makes it fluid. Â «A couple of years ago we embarked on a new journey: we want to be more modern, interpret the changes in society and expectations and reach as many consumers as possible», she says backstage Marco Falcioni «boy in jeans and T-shirt» who has redesigned the men’s suit starting from the culture of fabrics. Â«The masculinity of the brand is well established, in the 1990s it established itself with its solid aesthetics, of very proud men who are a bit plastered. Today the story is that of changing the meaning of the formal suit to make it an expression of individuality. From a shapeless for the office to a garment worn for pleasure, as young people do who discover it for the first time and interpret it in their own way».
“It took two years to redefine the armor jacket of the 80s campaigns”. Today the pinstripe in a delicate cool wool (Dinamo) has the colors of the walls of buildings faded by the sun for the waistcoat with large lapels also worn with Bermuda shorts and brushed sweaters. Falcioni posted on the moodboard the advertising page with which the German maison paid homage to its suppliers who have remained the same, Bonotto, Limonta, Colombo, Agnona, Marzotto and other excellences of Italian weaving to whom today more than ever we owe the avant-garde of the tailored suit. For the spring summer 2023 collection.
He also re-edited the jacket made for Miami Vice in the 80s. Today it is in silk-linen in earthy tones with a maxi shiny rever. The generous ones and the trench coats of the early Nineties are today in a very soft cigar-colored nubuck or in washed silk, shaded browns or blues. But the new for successful outfit for Falcioni is the vest-trousers outfit. Even in the sleeveless version, the jacket renews the outfit with the skirt with the hem that always stops above the knee, worn with silk socks and shoes with square toes and heels (Made in the Marche).
The cotton and polyamide trench coat is almost transparent, like the nylon tie and bustier belts, always worn “a little unfastened like at the end of a party that lasted until dawn”. After all we are in Miami, where health has become the new sport that makes you run at all hours, possibly shirtless. And it is from here that the 3.7 million tailoring giant, which saw a 27 percent increase in turnover in 2022, wants to conquer “an ever-increasing number of people on the global market”. Especially young people, aiming straight for the new platforms. Invited to the front row are the Gen Z Tiktokers and youtubers. Nadia Kokni, head of communications, assures that it is not just about advertising: “visibility is not enough, today engagement, emotional involvement are the key”.
Â«The world is casualizing, but it has returned to appreciate quality, well done. We are investing to energize the brand, making it young and inclusive without distinction of size or gender as demonstrated by the fashion show and the United States becomes the key market equally to Europe. Showing that Boss is a lifestyle brand designed to make you feel at ease 24/7 is important not only for communication, it is the basis for ensuring the company’s future». And also in this perspective, part of the fashion show, broadcast in streaming on TikTok, YouTube, Twitter and Linkedin is see now, buy now: «to experience direct shopping, but also as «a platform on which to evolve».